When I was younger my mother used to make Split Pea Soup. I hated it. I remember an ugly, gnarled bone sitting in a pot or slow cooker, still clung with remnants of buff-rose colored meat. I remember the dusty looking, crocodile-skinned dried peas clattering in like little pebbles. I remember the color of them going bright green before dulling to a drab olive shade. It thickened to an overbearing porridge, nubbly and rubbly textured, almost like a loose but lumpy potato puree.
She wasn’t a bad cook—not in the least—but I dreaded hearing we’d be having ham for a big family meal or something; it meant split peas would show up in the pantry soon, and this soup would be made shortly after. Now, their texture can be almost endearing and comforting, and I’ve even come around to split pea soups considering they’re not a thickness of cosmic proportions.
With spring upon us, peas are on my mind. Mine tend to come from a frozen bag rather than in fresh form. I know that the image of a bag of frozen peas, stashed deep in the dark graveyard that is my freezer doesn’t really conjure up thoughts of spring. Think of it as bringing something out of the winter freeze and back to life, bright and green, if it helps. Frankly, unless you grow your own fresh peas, there’s no point buying fresh ones from the store or even the farmers’ market. After a mere few hours of being harvested, the peas start to loose some of their flavor, and have gone completely starchy within a day or two—though if you do grow your own peas you could certainly use them in this, just be sure not to salt this until they’re tender, otherwise they’ll turn a bit hard.
But anyway, this is my take on that rough mush. I’ve swapped pancetta for a ham bone (although you could use bacon); gone with frozen peas instead of dried, cutting down the cooking time considerably; and pureed the soup for a cleaner texture, more in line with the theme and tone of spring. And what better time for a rebirth or reinvention of something old than the season of newness?
I love the fresh and sweet lightness of it almost being punctured by the salty and meaty pancetta. Its color is so invigorating and boisterous, especially compared to its ancestor; it’s the essence of spring and so cheerful just to eat.
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| Servings | Prep Time |
| 4 | 5 - 10 minutes |
| Cook Time |
| 25 - 30 minutes |
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The best way to usher in spring is with light and fresh flavors that can still warm and comfort. Pea Soup with Pancetta is perfect for spring, and so fast to prepare--perfect for a quick weeknight meal.
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- 3 - 4 ounces pancetta cut into 1/4" cubes
- 3 green onions cut into thirds or fourths
- 6 - 8 ounce russet potato peeled and cut into 1" cubes
- 1 tablespoon butter
- 2 cloves garlic smashed
- 3 cups vegetable stock
- 1 cup water
- 1 pound frozen peas slightly thawed
- 2 tablespoons fresh minced parsley
- 3 - 4 tablespoons heavy cream
- 2 tablespoons fresh minced chives
- A few generous pinches kosher salt as needed
- Tumble the pancetta into a large, heavy-bottomed pot and put over medium heat. Cook until it starts to sizzle, and stir it about for a few minutes before turning the heat down to low and cooking until the fat has totally rendered and the pancetta is crisp—about 10 minutes total.
- Remove the pancetta to a paper towel lined plate, and all but 1 tablespoon of the fat. Drop in the butter and garlic and stir around for a minute before adding in the potatoes and green onions. Stir to combine.
- Pour in the vegetable stock and water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and keep at a simmer and keep it there for about 12 – 15 minutes—until the potatoes are fork tender.
- Pour in the peas and keep it simmering for 5 minutes, until the peas are tender.
- Sprinkle in the parsley and then puree, either with a blender or immersion blender—don’t use a food processor because it can make the potato gummy and the chop the peas, rather than puree them. If you are using a regular blender make sure to do this in about 4 batches to avoid it exploding everywhere.
- Stir in the cream before serving piping hot, scattering the chives and pancetta over each bowl.
- If you have any leftover watercress or baby arugula, a handful of one thrown into the blender with the soup would be another great addition to this soup.